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Thick trees surround the garden and the swimming pool, allowing the residents some privacy, but the loud music traveling downhill gives them away.This is one of the most blatantly unsubtle parties I have been to in Iran.The tree-lined park is home to the National Theatre and a decrepit teahouse, and is a roaming ground for mustachioed hipsters, long-haired musicians, chess-playing old men, and young couples holding hands and eating saffron-infused ice cream.The park is also one of the most popular pickup spots for Tehran's gay men.A typical night out for the urban middle class by Tehran's Milad Tower.

Across town in a grimy, smog-choked business district in central Tehran, Park-e Daneshjoo, or Student Park, is an oasis of calm.A party like this is the easiest way for young Iranians to hook up for a one-night stand. "All of us have profiles in the intelligence service, I'm sure we do," says Saeed."Names, details, everything." The Iranian authorities usually turn a blind eye to the gay community's escapades, but much like the intelligence services in the former Soviet Union, Iranian intelligence is believed to compile large files on many citizens, which they can use to build a legal case against people who might be caught engaging in political activities.Gays from lower classes and rural areas, where stigmatization is often most severe, rarely have the ability to move out of the house before marriage, let alone leave the country. there is generally little acceptance of homosexuality, but some middle- and upper-class Iranians have the means to create parallel lives, out of sight of their relatives or friends.These people — men like Saeed — are the lucky ones.

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